Fashion Business Club

Photograph of Courtney Blackman by Christopher Dadey

Creative consortium FARBLACK Limited has agreed to purchase London’s Fashion Business Club (FBC) Ltd. and has named Courtney Blackman as its managing director. The driving force behind the success of FBC, Blackman is being reappointed with immediate effect and will be instituting several exciting changes.

Fashion Business Club (FBC) will be rebranded as The Industry. Blackman says, “We have had an amazing five years at FBC and it is now time to evolve. The group is much, much more than a club, and the new name will better represent us as we grow our offer and expand internationally.”

Along with the new name, there will be a new meeting structure. “The one bit of consistent feedback was that the timing for our meetings was restrictive, so we’re moving the meeting start time from 3:00pm to 5:00pm, to give more members the ability to enjoy and benefit from them,” continues Blackman.

The next meeting will be Wednesday the 27th of July at 5:00pm at Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™. Multiple award-winning British singer and songwriter, Kate Nash will be The Industry’s guest, interviewed by top London fashion stylist, Rebekah Roy, renowned globally for her work across editorial, catwalk and music. Kate will be sharing her experience in the music industry and relating how her image and fashion footprint translates to and inspires her fan base.

The July 27^th meeting will also be the official launch of The Industry’s new website which will enhance the membership experience, providing The Industry members with a platform to promote their brands, while providing a wider swath of the fashion world access to interesting and timely insights.

Finally, at the same meeting The Industry will be announcing a suite of offerings to members that are sure to keep The Industry as the leading forum for the fashion community.

For more details contact: laura@theindustrylondon.com

At Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™ on March 31, FBC hosted another sell out meeting where Fashion Editor Navaz Batliwalla (Disneyrollergirl)  conducted an inspirational and succinct interview with Fashion Editor Sasha Wilkins (Libertylondongirl) highlighting the business evolution of two exceptional bloggers. From initially blogging anonymously to finally taking the bold step of sharing their identities and profiting from their skills – resulting in authentic brand partnerships and selective affiliate marketing. Interested and would like to know more?

For all our members and guests who attended the sell out meeting – we hope your enjoy a refresher from FBCtv – and for members who missed the meeting, we hope you enjoy and are inspired by two exceptional women.

Blog written by: Bukie Aje-Lloyd

To mark Fashion Business Club (FBC)’s 5^th anniversary, the fashion professionals network invited German sequin master; Markus Lupfer to talk to FBC board member and VOGUE.COM UK editor, Dolly Jones at London’s Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™.

The first thing that strikes you about Markus Lupfer is his humility and down-to-earth nature. Despite his global success as a fashion designer and the droves of celebrity devotees endorsing his brand, he remains businesslike, approachable and engaging.

These characteristics are clearly assets that he brings into his business, allowing him to be both groundbreaking and experimental with unique ranges that remain wearable everyday basics. It is crucial for Lupfer that he never isolates his stockists or perhaps most importantly: his customers.

Despite confessing to being ‘a bit shy’ and preferring to operate behind the curtain of his own business, his thoughtful responses to Dolly’s questions revealed that he is clearly a skilled communicator and careful listener. Indeed, attention to detail and intricate finishing have come to define and differentiate his brand and Markus confirms, “Embellishment has become the signature of the label”.

Dolly Jones & Markus Lupfer

When asked if his upcoming tea at The Sanderson arranged for London Fashion Week in February perhaps indicates a desire to return to the catwalk, Markus is clear to define his priorities. “You have to make things bigger, louder, more extreme for the catwalk,” but Markus focuses on fashion that works on the shop floor, advising, “Think about your customer. If the shop has an issue, help them with it. Without the shop floor you don’t have a business.”

Whilst Markus has not yet found a direct replacement for the catwalk, he continues to inform the market by building relationships and making himself and his brand accessible to existing and prospective customers.

Customer centricity is not something that he simply pays lip service to; for Markus Lupfer it is a way of life. In conversation with Dolly who said, “…you strike me as a very international person – do you think that’s the secret to your success, the fact that you are multicultural and always travelling?” Markus replied, “I think that it is really important to travel. If I look at it from a business point of view… it’s colder here but quite often my markets are in hotter climates. It is important to look at other countries and see what they like to wear”.

He is evidently tuned into the varying tastes of his diverse markets, creating ranges that are culturally as well as geographically specific. This awareness and proactive response to customer needs is perfectly summed up in his tailoring of certain products for Harrods in the build up to Ramadan.

Markus Lupfer’s creations have become synonymous with celebrity wardrobes and this plays a key role in the broader marketing of his brand.

Dolly: “You worked with Olivia Palermo fairly on in her career, that makes you a spotter of new talent”

Markus: “You need to strike a balance between the likes of Rihanna and new, up and coming [talents].

Dolly: “Who’s next on your radar?”

Markus: “There is someone coming up soon… we’ll see!”

A balanced representation from established global stars and relatively undiscovered new talent reflects a very deliberate effort to remain inclusive and accessible, despite clearly appealing to the luxury end of the market.

As a German designer, now based in the UK he is asked to discuss what the British fashion scene has done for him. “I came here to study and that was really crucial I think because I studied for 2 years in Germany where fashion culture was very correct and followed rules. Then when I came here it was all about ‘Who are you?’ ‘What do you want to achieve?’ I think the UK [fashion scene] is the strongest in the world”

Markus Lupfer talking with Frances Card of Matches and Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™’s Stine Broggard

Where he does see flaws and room for improvement in the UK market is on the ‘sell side’ and rightly emphasises that, “ability to sell your collection will make or break your business.”

At the end of a very informative interview, which flows more like a conversation between two old friends – questions are opened up to the floor.

Unsurprisingly, the first question is prefaced with a comment about how refreshingly humble and candid Markus is, despite his huge success. He is then asked if he would ever consider a ‘diffusion line’.

In his response, he explains that his business is structured to serve three separate markets and price points, again reaffirming his dedication to accessibility. Sticking to this formula is considered more relevant for him and avoids overcomplicating things for his stockists.

A further questioner mentions seeing the German designer at Harvey Nicholls, being the face of the brand during Vogue’s ‘Fashion’s Night Out’ where he seemed to be enjoying the customer direct experience. “Generally I am happy to do it” he doesn’t instinctively want to be on centre stage but explains, “I love to see who my customers are”. Being more closely linked to retailers than their customers, it is a rare insight for him to meet them and receive direct feedback.

Markus Lupfer talking with Tala Samman of My Fash Diary and FBC co-founder Courtney Blackman

Finally, Courtney Blackman (co-chairman and co-founder of FBC) asks about his views on social networking sites and new models of communication, and Lupfer, ever keen to reach out to his customers is excited by the social networking phenomenon and confirms he is a regular Tweeter, and that he has a film in the pipeline.

The 5^th anniversary reached its conclusion with music from three fashionable DJ’s called The Collection led by Jeffrey Louis-Reed from Audio Sushi, champagne and ‘FBC Cocktails’ made especially by the Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™ bar staff. Markus joined in the celebrations, taking the time to chat to FBC members making the most of the opportunity to talk to one of London’s foremost fashion business minds.

Written by FBC member Alice Stone of Lily and Lionel

Photos by FBC photographer Venetia van Hoorn Alkema

Alice Stone

On Thursday the 27^th of January, fashion designer Markus Lupfer will be interviewed by FBC board member and editor of VOGUE.COM, Dolly Jones at Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™. The meeting will also mark FBC’s 5^th year in business.

Guest editing on the day, will be FBC member and master of the accessory, Alice Stone, from fast-growing accessories label, Lily and Lionel.

Lily and Lionel is an online boutique that Alice launched only two years ago. The site stocks the label’s own scarves, belts and bags, and you can also find Lily and Lionel products at Whistles, Matches (where FBC member Frances Card is the commercial director), Start, Anthropologie, the V&A and more.

Alice is the company’s founder and director, as well as the creative director of Lily and Lionel. Who are Lily and Lionel? Alice’s grandparents who lived in London’s East End. Lily worked as a seamstress and Lionel in garment production.

Alice will be writing the official FBC review, which will appear on the FBC Blog shortly after the meeting on the 27th.

Would you like to attend the meeting? Contact membership@fashionbusinessclub.net or if you are a member of the press, press@fashionbusinessclub.net

The crowd at Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™

The bitterly cold weather didn’t deter FBC members who turned up in force to hear WGSN’s Lauretta Roberts interview fashion retail expert Yasmin Sewell at Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™. Looking effortlessly cool in a Christopher Kane top, rolled up jeans and grey Topshop heels, Yasmin confessed to feeling a little daunted by all the attention, admitting  ‘I hope I have something interesting to say.’ She needn’t worry – with a career which started in real estate and window dressing at Browns, and saw her launch her own boutique and work with brands such as Rick Owens before becoming hot property as a retail consultant, she certainly has a fashion story to tell.

Lauretta Roberts interviewing Yasmin Sewell

Yasmin is renowned for the successful transformation of iconic London department store Liberty, which she achieved with the addition of around 70 new designers and a fresh design aesthetic, leading to the store reporting its largest half-year profit in 10 years. Yasmin admitted feeling a degree of nervousness about taking on such a well-loved institution, and her respect for the store is clear: ‘It’s magical – it just needed to be cleaned up.’

Lauretta Roberts and Yasmin Sewell

Modestly insisting the overhaul was the work of the whole team, she explains how energy flow is incredibly important in a retail environment - ‘I can get really spiritual when I want to’ – and that too much product clogging up the space can be detrimental to sales. Working for Liberty taught Yasmin the importance of trusting her own judgement, and – in spite of never having had any formal training – she was also able to develop marketing skills on the job. Summarising the project, Yasmin stresses the importance of a store understanding its core values, describing Liberty as ‘eclectic, a bit mad, not too fashion but still cool’.

FBC’s press director Penelope Sacorafou, tweeting to @FBCLondon

In her day-to-day role, Yasmin and her PA Hannah offer trend, product and buying direction for brands and retailers. Perhaps better known for her work with luxury brands, Yasmin’s clients also include high street retailers and she cites Topshop, Zara and COS as fantastic high street brands. Discussing the notoriously unfathomable art of trend forecasting Yasmin explains, ‘It often comes down to a feeling, as well as looking at what’s already happening in fashion and seeing how that can evolve. It’s also about opposites – if it’s all about skinny jeans it will go wide.’ Something of a globetrotter, she also gathers information from around the world, offering a personalised trend service for each customer.

FBC member Lupe Castro (centre) with visiting press Marian Kihogo and Michelle Bobb Paris

Although she prefers a physical retail environment for her own purchases, Yasmin is also an expert in online fashion retail. Asked about how the internet has affected consumer behaviour she explains, ‘It’s made kids savvy through access to information, which is scary for designers as they don’t want to be overexposed.’ In terms of bricks and mortar stores, Yasmin is of the resolute belief that service is at the heart of an outstanding retailer, alongside great product and ‘an environment that makes customers feel great when they walk in’.

Caroline Leaper and Sabina Emrit from ACCESS-FASHION with Nik Thakkar (centre) from KARLISMYUNCLE

With experience in the UK and across the pond, Yasmin feels that service is generally appalling in London compared to New York, and she’s vehement that the attitude on our shop floors needs to change. ‘It’s hard to change the mentality that it is degrading to serve someone, [but] I think it’s beautiful to serve someone and make them feel great in a dress.’ She does, however, give John Lewis her customer service seal of approval.

FBC member Frances Card of Matches talking with Sach Kukadia of secretsales.com

Yasmin Sewell with Andre DeVeaux and The Hub magazine editor, Tolu Adeko

As a mentor with the BFC, Yasmin is dedicated to supporting young designers and knows what it takes to stand out from the crowd. She explains that the ones who do make it have drive and common sense – as well as a little magic. Someone who definitely has ‘the magic’ is Christopher Kane, who she championed in her role as Buying Director at Browns. Her hot tips for brand new design talent are Thomas Tait and JS Lee.

What advice would she give to young designers? ‘Be unique, embrace who you are and know your market’. Having acted as a mentor for Estethica, Yasmin feels a mentoring programme for graduates would definitely be beneficial. ‘Sometimes as a young designer you’re in your own head so much that you can get quite delusional…you need to know what’s happening out there in the world.’

FBC members Helen Puxley of RAH Productions and Orlando Martins or Oresa

Her expertise comes with the benefit of considerable experience. Yasmin opened her own boutique Yasmin Cho at just 21, gaining her a reputation for spotting hot new talent. The store went on to be listed as one of the most influential in the world by the New York Times. Yasmin puts the eventual closure of the boutique down to being vulnerable, getting bad advice and making bad financial choices. It is from mistakes such as these, though, that she finds the most valuable lessons are learned, saying, ‘you get burned, you learn.’

So which store would Yasmin love to get her hands on? ‘Australian store David Jones, I’d work on the brand mix, layout and service in the store. I’ve always loved Barney’s as it is so gorgeous and intimate, although it doesn’t really need my help.’

FBC members & stylists Anne Look and Rebekah Roy with fashion photographer Christopher Dadey

Surprisingly for someone with such an obvious love for fashion, Yasmin keeps her wardrobe on the minimalist side, ‘I don’t like to clutter my life with too many clothes so every couple of months I sell them’. There were a few disappointed FBC members in the room as Yasmin revealed her cleaner gets most of her clothes – ‘I haven’t paid her in about 6 months!’ Despite clearing out all the clothes she hasn’t worn in a year, she admits to keeping around 10 special pieces. ‘Alaïa doesn’t go,’ she says with a smile. We can only imagine what these 10 special pieces are, but we’re told two of her favourite brands are Acne and Balenciaga.

Lauretta and Yasmin with FBC co-founders Courtney Blackman and Alison Whelan

Listening to Yasmin talk about her career and achievements, it’s clear she has the Midas touch when it comes to fashion retail, but also that her numerous successes have been achieved through old-fashioned hard work. Judging by the amount of FBC members who stay long after the chairs have been cleared away to chat with her over a little champagne, it’s clear she has many more inspirational nuggets to share.

By guest editor, FBC member & editor of Fashion Monitor, Victoria Todd

Photographs by FBC member Venetia van Hoorn Alkema

Victoria Todd

FBC’s Yasmin Sewell/Lauretta Roberts meeting is only two days away and we’re delighted to announce that FBC member and editor of Fashion Monitor, Victoria Todd will be our guest editor.

Fashion Monitor is the online and printed platform that provides subscribers with the latest industry updates including media moves and PR wins to launches and creative signings.

Victoria will be writing the official FBC report for Thursday, the 25th of November, where fashion retail consultant, creative advisor and trend forecaster, Yasmin Sewell will be interviewed by FBC member and WGSN’s digital development director, Lauretta Roberts.

A superstar in the fashion world for over a decade, Yasmin says, “We are working in a field of constant change and I am looking forward to discussing at FBC what the future may hold for our industry and the role I have been fortunate enough to play in it.”

FBC members will hear about Yasmin’s journey first hand and she will tackle questions regarding fashion trends and their relation to retailers, the challenges of the Internet and how its fast-paced nature influences fashion and the growth of online shopping, how to get noticed by the world’s top buyers and much more.

Thursday, November 25th 2010

3:00pm

Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™

Enquiries: membership@fashionbusinessclub.net or press@fashionbusinessclub.net

FBC would like to congratulate FBC member Mark Bage, creative director of Sarah Coggles, on a double win at the 2010 Drapers Awards. No stranger to awards over the last several years, Sarah Coggles, the York-based boutique that launched in 1976, was shortlisted in five different categories, so it was not surprising that two trophies went home with Mark. Mark and his team won Buyer/Buyer Team of the Year and Independent Retailer of the Year.

Mark says, “We are very proud to have won the two main Drapers Awards. We were awarded ‘Buying Team of the Year’ and the overall winner of the night with ‘Independent Retailer of the Year’. It is such an amazing honour to have won so many in one night as the event is considered to be the industry’s Fashion Oscars.”

Mark and his team accepting both awards

The event was held at London’s Grosvenor House Hotel and several FBC members were there to help celebrate 20 years of the awards. Matches commercial director, Frances Card; director of RAH Productions, Helen Puxley and associate director of EdenCanCan, Jonathan Kirkby were there, and table 17 was especially crowded with FBC members: Courtney Blackman, MD of Forward PR & FBC co-chair; Lauretta Roberts, digital development director at WGSN; Harold Tillman CBE, chairman of the British Fashion Council and our guest interviewee for the 25th, fashion retail consultant, creative advisor and trend forecaster, Yasmin Sewell.

See Lauretta Roberts interview Yasmin Sewell on Thursday the 25^th of November at Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™. Contact: membership@fashionbusinessclub.net

FBC is very pleased to have been an official partner of the inaugural WGSN Global Fashion Awards. The awards were conceptualised by FBC member Lauretta Roberts, WGSN’s digital development director, and executed to perfection by a WGSN team from around the globe.

The awards ceremony took place on the 18th floor at the Waldorf Astoria in New York on the 10th of November. Hosted by Nigel Barker, one of our proudest moments was when FBC member Harold Tillman CBE was recognised for his 40 plus years in the industry with the John Rocha designed, Waterford crystal trophy marked with Outstanding Contribution to Fashion. The award was much deserved as Harold is chairman of the British Fashion Council and owns two of Britain’s most iconic heritage labels: Jaeger and Aquascutum.

Nigel Barker, Harold Tillman and Barney’s Simon Doonan

FBC blog editor and celebrity fashion stylist, Rebekah Roy was responsible for nominating her longtime client, London-based fashion designer, William Tempest in the category of best Emerging Brand or Retailer. With a shortlist that included strong brands from around the world, William came out on top and won the award. William also was charged with dressing FBC co-founder Courtney Blackman, who wore a one-of-a-kind William Tempest dress to the awards ceremony, then changed into a piece from his SS11 collection for the after party. Courtney was representing the Global Fashion Awards through her PR agency, Forward PR and was there in the capacity of official FBC envoy.

Sarah Curran (2nd from right) with her team: Luisa de Paula, Fiona McIntosh, Jean-Marc Bouhelier and Lauren Stevenson

The winners of the Global Fashion Awards were selected by an expert panel of judges, made up the most influential people in fashion and style, including FBC board member and editor of VOGUE.COM, Dolly Jones, who was present at the ceremony in New York along with FBC members Sarah Curran, founder & CEO of my-wardrobe.com and executive headhunter, Orlando Martins of Oresa Limted.

Congratulations to Lauretta Roberts for creating a truly amazing event. We’ll look forward to the 2011 Global Fashion Awards!

Visit the GFA website for full details and results from the evening: WGSN Global Fashion Awards.

See Lauretta on the 25th of November at Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™ for the next FBC meeting, where she will interview the legendary Yasmin Sewell. For details contact: membership@fashionbusinessclub.net or press@fashionbusinessclub.net

In just over a month FBC co-founder and co-chairman Courtney Blackman has managed to organise several fashion shows through her PR agency Forward PR, an FBC meeting featuring FBC board member and VOGUE.COM’s Dolly Jones interviewing Laura Bailey, be hailed style icon and if all this was not enough, she is about to moderate a debate called Fashion Meets Tradition for SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS on the 20th of October before flying off to New York for the WGSN Global Fashion Awards (FBC member Lauretta Roberts‘ initiative). To describe Courtney as busy is surely an understatement.

The discussion will include contributions from authoritative guest speakers such as FBC member and fashion & celebrity stylist, Rebekah Roy, fashion designer Maria Grachvogel, Swarovski’s director of trend and design, Ute Shumacher and Rasha Khouri from Dia Boutique.

“I’m really looking forward to moderating the Fashion Meets Tradition with SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS seminar at Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™. We have the most amazing panel that spans the globe with a designer from London, a manufacturer from Dubai and a top fashion editor from Lebanon, and a host of media is being flown in from the Middle East to mix with the best of London’s fashion industry. It’s a hugely important event that will explore culture, history and how traditional wear it is being brought to life in the contemporary world through modern design and embellishment. I can’t wait!” – Courtney Blackman

The seminar follows the private view launch party of the stunning Jawaher (Jewel) exhibition the evening before on 19th of October, featuring a fashion spectacular alongside an exhibition of creations from global designers. FBC’s venue partner, Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™, run by FBC member Stine Brogaard, will be lavishly decorated in styles reminiscent of an Arabian palace with an exotic Bedouin tent. Opulent mirrors, mosaics and drapes bedecked with crystals will complement interactive floor media, and sensory reactive crystals will further add to the enchanting, ultra-luxurious atmosphere.

Interested in attending the preview evening on the 19th or the seminar on the 20th, or both? Please contact Chloe Wheywell at SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS: chloe.wheywell@swarovski.com

Amisha Ghadiali

FBC member Amisha Ghadiali will be our guest editor for the Laura Bailey / Dolly Jones interview.

Amisha lives and breathes ethical fashion, having worked in the industry for the past four years, both as the associate director of the Ethical Fashion Forum, working with everyone across the supply chain from farmers to retailers, and as designer of her own line of jewellery: Amisha Elegance Rebellion, which has been featured in Grazia and Vogue.

Alongside the jewellery label, Amisha writes for Ecouterre, the US site devoted to the future of sustainable fashion design. This year Amisha also founded the Think Act Vote campaign to bring fashion and politics together, asking us to think about The Future That We Choose.

We’ll look forward to reading Amisha’s review of the FBC meeting.

Laura Baily interviewed by Dolly Jones

30 September 2010

3:00pm

Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™

membership@fashionbusinessclub.net