To mark Fashion Business Club (FBC)’s 5th anniversary, the fashion professionals network invited German sequin master; Markus Lupfer to talk to FBC board member and VOGUE.COM UK editor, Dolly Jones at London’s Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™.
The first thing that strikes you about Markus Lupfer is his humility and down-to-earth nature. Despite his global success as a fashion designer and the droves of celebrity devotees endorsing his brand, he remains businesslike, approachable and engaging.
These characteristics are clearly assets that he brings into his business, allowing him to be both groundbreaking and experimental with unique ranges that remain wearable everyday basics. It is crucial for Lupfer that he never isolates his stockists or perhaps most importantly: his customers.
Despite confessing to being ‘a bit shy’ and preferring to operate behind the curtain of his own business, his thoughtful responses to Dolly’s questions revealed that he is clearly a skilled communicator and careful listener. Indeed, attention to detail and intricate finishing have come to define and differentiate his brand and Markus confirms, “Embellishment has become the signature of the label”.
Dolly Jones & Markus Lupfer
When asked if his upcoming tea at The Sanderson arranged for London Fashion Week in February perhaps indicates a desire to return to the catwalk, Markus is clear to define his priorities. “You have to make things bigger, louder, more extreme for the catwalk,” but Markus focuses on fashion that works on the shop floor, advising, “Think about your customer. If the shop has an issue, help them with it. Without the shop floor you don’t have a business.”
Whilst Markus has not yet found a direct replacement for the catwalk, he continues to inform the market by building relationships and making himself and his brand accessible to existing and prospective customers.
Customer centricity is not something that he simply pays lip service to; for Markus Lupfer it is a way of life. In conversation with Dolly who said, “…you strike me as a very international person – do you think that’s the secret to your success, the fact that you are multicultural and always travelling?” Markus replied, “I think that it is really important to travel. If I look at it from a business point of view… it’s colder here but quite often my markets are in hotter climates. It is important to look at other countries and see what they like to wear”.
He is evidently tuned into the varying tastes of his diverse markets, creating ranges that are culturally as well as geographically specific. This awareness and proactive response to customer needs is perfectly summed up in his tailoring of certain products for Harrods in the build up to Ramadan.
Markus Lupfer’s creations have become synonymous with celebrity wardrobes and this plays a key role in the broader marketing of his brand.
Dolly: “You worked with Olivia Palermo fairly on in her career, that makes you a spotter of new talent”
Markus: “You need to strike a balance between the likes of Rihanna and new, up and coming [talents].
Dolly: “Who’s next on your radar?”
Markus: “There is someone coming up soon… we’ll see!”
A balanced representation from established global stars and relatively undiscovered new talent reflects a very deliberate effort to remain inclusive and accessible, despite clearly appealing to the luxury end of the market.
As a German designer, now based in the UK he is asked to discuss what the British fashion scene has done for him. “I came here to study and that was really crucial I think because I studied for 2 years in Germany where fashion culture was very correct and followed rules. Then when I came here it was all about ‘Who are you?’ ‘What do you want to achieve?’ I think the UK [fashion scene] is the strongest in the world”
Markus Lupfer talking with Frances Card of Matches and Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™’s Stine Broggard
Where he does see flaws and room for improvement in the UK market is on the ‘sell side’ and rightly emphasises that, “ability to sell your collection will make or break your business.”
At the end of a very informative interview, which flows more like a conversation between two old friends – questions are opened up to the floor.
Unsurprisingly, the first question is prefaced with a comment about how refreshingly humble and candid Markus is, despite his huge success. He is then asked if he would ever consider a ‘diffusion line’.
In his response, he explains that his business is structured to serve three separate markets and price points, again reaffirming his dedication to accessibility. Sticking to this formula is considered more relevant for him and avoids overcomplicating things for his stockists.
A further questioner mentions seeing the German designer at Harvey Nicholls, being the face of the brand during Vogue’s ‘Fashion’s Night Out’ where he seemed to be enjoying the customer direct experience. “Generally I am happy to do it” he doesn’t instinctively want to be on centre stage but explains, “I love to see who my customers are”. Being more closely linked to retailers than their customers, it is a rare insight for him to meet them and receive direct feedback.
Markus Lupfer talking with Tala Samman of My Fash Diary and FBC co-founder Courtney Blackman
Finally, Courtney Blackman (co-chairman and co-founder of FBC) asks about his views on social networking sites and new models of communication, and Lupfer, ever keen to reach out to his customers is excited by the social networking phenomenon and confirms he is a regular Tweeter, and that he has a film in the pipeline.
The 5th anniversary reached its conclusion with music from three fashionable DJ’s called The Collection led by Jeffrey Louis-Reed from Audio Sushi, champagne and ‘FBC Cocktails’ made especially by the Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™ bar staff. Markus joined in the celebrations, taking the time to chat to FBC members making the most of the opportunity to talk to one of London’s foremost fashion business minds.
Written by FBC member Alice Stone of Lily and Lionel
Photos by FBC photographer Venetia van Hoorn Alkema
