Fashion Business Club

Photograph of Courtney Blackman by Christopher Dadey

Creative consortium FARBLACK Limited has agreed to purchase London’s Fashion Business Club (FBC) Ltd. and has named Courtney Blackman as its managing director. The driving force behind the success of FBC, Blackman is being reappointed with immediate effect and will be instituting several exciting changes.

Fashion Business Club (FBC) will be rebranded as The Industry. Blackman says, “We have had an amazing five years at FBC and it is now time to evolve. The group is much, much more than a club, and the new name will better represent us as we grow our offer and expand internationally.”

Along with the new name, there will be a new meeting structure. “The one bit of consistent feedback was that the timing for our meetings was restrictive, so we’re moving the meeting start time from 3:00pm to 5:00pm, to give more members the ability to enjoy and benefit from them,” continues Blackman.

The next meeting will be Wednesday the 27th of July at 5:00pm at Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™. Multiple award-winning British singer and songwriter, Kate Nash will be The Industry’s guest, interviewed by top London fashion stylist, Rebekah Roy, renowned globally for her work across editorial, catwalk and music. Kate will be sharing her experience in the music industry and relating how her image and fashion footprint translates to and inspires her fan base.

The July 27^th meeting will also be the official launch of The Industry’s new website which will enhance the membership experience, providing The Industry members with a platform to promote their brands, while providing a wider swath of the fashion world access to interesting and timely insights.

Finally, at the same meeting The Industry will be announcing a suite of offerings to members that are sure to keep The Industry as the leading forum for the fashion community.

For more details contact: laura@theindustrylondon.com

To mark Fashion Business Club (FBC)’s 5^th anniversary, the fashion professionals network invited German sequin master; Markus Lupfer to talk to FBC board member and VOGUE.COM UK editor, Dolly Jones at London’s Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™.

The first thing that strikes you about Markus Lupfer is his humility and down-to-earth nature. Despite his global success as a fashion designer and the droves of celebrity devotees endorsing his brand, he remains businesslike, approachable and engaging.

These characteristics are clearly assets that he brings into his business, allowing him to be both groundbreaking and experimental with unique ranges that remain wearable everyday basics. It is crucial for Lupfer that he never isolates his stockists or perhaps most importantly: his customers.

Despite confessing to being ‘a bit shy’ and preferring to operate behind the curtain of his own business, his thoughtful responses to Dolly’s questions revealed that he is clearly a skilled communicator and careful listener. Indeed, attention to detail and intricate finishing have come to define and differentiate his brand and Markus confirms, “Embellishment has become the signature of the label”.

Dolly Jones & Markus Lupfer

When asked if his upcoming tea at The Sanderson arranged for London Fashion Week in February perhaps indicates a desire to return to the catwalk, Markus is clear to define his priorities. “You have to make things bigger, louder, more extreme for the catwalk,” but Markus focuses on fashion that works on the shop floor, advising, “Think about your customer. If the shop has an issue, help them with it. Without the shop floor you don’t have a business.”

Whilst Markus has not yet found a direct replacement for the catwalk, he continues to inform the market by building relationships and making himself and his brand accessible to existing and prospective customers.

Customer centricity is not something that he simply pays lip service to; for Markus Lupfer it is a way of life. In conversation with Dolly who said, “…you strike me as a very international person – do you think that’s the secret to your success, the fact that you are multicultural and always travelling?” Markus replied, “I think that it is really important to travel. If I look at it from a business point of view… it’s colder here but quite often my markets are in hotter climates. It is important to look at other countries and see what they like to wear”.

He is evidently tuned into the varying tastes of his diverse markets, creating ranges that are culturally as well as geographically specific. This awareness and proactive response to customer needs is perfectly summed up in his tailoring of certain products for Harrods in the build up to Ramadan.

Markus Lupfer’s creations have become synonymous with celebrity wardrobes and this plays a key role in the broader marketing of his brand.

Dolly: “You worked with Olivia Palermo fairly on in her career, that makes you a spotter of new talent”

Markus: “You need to strike a balance between the likes of Rihanna and new, up and coming [talents].

Dolly: “Who’s next on your radar?”

Markus: “There is someone coming up soon… we’ll see!”

A balanced representation from established global stars and relatively undiscovered new talent reflects a very deliberate effort to remain inclusive and accessible, despite clearly appealing to the luxury end of the market.

As a German designer, now based in the UK he is asked to discuss what the British fashion scene has done for him. “I came here to study and that was really crucial I think because I studied for 2 years in Germany where fashion culture was very correct and followed rules. Then when I came here it was all about ‘Who are you?’ ‘What do you want to achieve?’ I think the UK [fashion scene] is the strongest in the world”

Markus Lupfer talking with Frances Card of Matches and Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™’s Stine Broggard

Where he does see flaws and room for improvement in the UK market is on the ‘sell side’ and rightly emphasises that, “ability to sell your collection will make or break your business.”

At the end of a very informative interview, which flows more like a conversation between two old friends – questions are opened up to the floor.

Unsurprisingly, the first question is prefaced with a comment about how refreshingly humble and candid Markus is, despite his huge success. He is then asked if he would ever consider a ‘diffusion line’.

In his response, he explains that his business is structured to serve three separate markets and price points, again reaffirming his dedication to accessibility. Sticking to this formula is considered more relevant for him and avoids overcomplicating things for his stockists.

A further questioner mentions seeing the German designer at Harvey Nicholls, being the face of the brand during Vogue’s ‘Fashion’s Night Out’ where he seemed to be enjoying the customer direct experience. “Generally I am happy to do it” he doesn’t instinctively want to be on centre stage but explains, “I love to see who my customers are”. Being more closely linked to retailers than their customers, it is a rare insight for him to meet them and receive direct feedback.

Markus Lupfer talking with Tala Samman of My Fash Diary and FBC co-founder Courtney Blackman

Finally, Courtney Blackman (co-chairman and co-founder of FBC) asks about his views on social networking sites and new models of communication, and Lupfer, ever keen to reach out to his customers is excited by the social networking phenomenon and confirms he is a regular Tweeter, and that he has a film in the pipeline.

The 5^th anniversary reached its conclusion with music from three fashionable DJ’s called The Collection led by Jeffrey Louis-Reed from Audio Sushi, champagne and ‘FBC Cocktails’ made especially by the Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™ bar staff. Markus joined in the celebrations, taking the time to chat to FBC members making the most of the opportunity to talk to one of London’s foremost fashion business minds.

Written by FBC member Alice Stone of Lily and Lionel

Photos by FBC photographer Venetia van Hoorn Alkema

Markus Lupfer

Designer extraordinaire Markus Lupfer will be the next fashion star to grace FBC with his presence at the upcoming bi-monthly meeting on the 27th of January. Markus Lupfer will be interviewed by FBC board member and editor of  VOGUE.COM, Dolly Jones. The meeting will also mark FBC’s 5th anniversary.

Markus’ sparkly sequined creations have become somewhat of a trademark, worn by global fashionistas such as Rhianna, Beyoncé, Anna Friel and Gossip Girl’s Leighton Meister. FBC co-founder Alison Whelan says ‘I cannot think of better way to celebrate 5 years of FBC than with the sequin genius, highly colourful and charming Markus Lupfer.‘

FBC co-founder Courtney Blackman adds, ‘In 2010 FBC interviewed an infamous stylist, a maverick fashion buyer and a multi-faceted model, and the year came to a close with FBC at the forefront of fashion as one of the most influential clubs. In 2011 for our 5th birthday, we pick up from this dynamic position by inviting designer Markus Lupfer to be interviewed by FBC board member and editor of VOGUE.COM, Dolly Jones. Markus is an influential and inspiring personality in the fashion industry that has collaborated with an array of mega brands from the High Street and on more exclusive projects with a handful of luxury labels. The diversity of these projects is proof of his entrepreneurial might. His designs exhibit exceptional talent and his famous knits have been spotted on just about everyone. FBC and I are proud to be welcoming Markus and even more so that he will be launching FBC’s 2011 calendar of events.’

FBC board member and editor of VOGUE.COM Dolly Jones will be interviewing the multi-awarded designer on issues such as to how he came to achieve such success, what defines a labels creative direction and the strengths and threats creativity faces by the Internet.

If you would like to attend please let us know by contacting: membership@fashionbusinessclub.net, or if you are press please contact Penelope Sacorafou at press@fashionbusinessclub.net

FBC co-founder Courtney Blackman, and FBC member Amisha Ghadiali are lending their expertise to the Ethical Fashion Forum’s (EFF) Excellence in Ethical Fashion training day on Friday the 10th of December.

The EFF is bringing together experts in fashion business and sustainability to develop an intensive day of training. The event will cover market and sales success, business and financial success, and excellence in sustainable sourcing.   

Courtney and Amisha will be taking part in the Meet the Experts session, whereby 19 of the UK’s foremost experts in fashion and sustainability will be available for one to one advice sessions.

Courtney, who specialises in fashion marketing and PR is the founder and managing director of London’s Forward PR and is an EFF board member. Courtney will be on hand to talk to attendees about building or increasing press and media presence and profiling their brands.

Amisha is an ethical jewellery designer and former associate director of the EFF. Previously responsible for social media and promotion, Amisha played an overall strategic role within the organisation. Amisha now works with fashion brands helping them understand the complete picture when it comes to bringing sustainability into their businesses, and advises them on how to increase their presence in the media and online.

For more information on attending the event, click here.

FBC member Imran Amed, editor of The Business of Fashion held the third instalment of his Fashion Pioneers initiative on Friday the 26^th of November. An extra large studio in the lower ground level of The Hospital Club in London was the backdrop, with live streaming on various websites around the globe, including on FBC member DisneyRollerGirl’s site in the UK. FBC members in the audience included Fashion Scout director, Martyn Roberts, founder and MD of Muks, Jaime Cooke, and fashion stylist Rebekah Roy.

FBC members Jaime Cooke and Rebekah Roy

Fashion Pioneers puts the industry’s true visionaries in the spotlight. The ones who had the foresight well before the rest of us and have shaped the way we all see, interact, buy and work in fashion.

Legendary image-maker and founder and director of SHOWstudio, Nick Knight took to the spotlight this time around for very rare live interview.

Nick has been a leading photographer for over 30 years after abandoning studies to become a doctor. He ‘liked the look of the art department,’ and he felt like life was leading him toward image making so he, ‘took up arts to prove something to himself,’ and it quickly became an ‘addiction…a curse and a pleasure’.

‘Ever since I started photography, I wanted to change it’. Nick felt that there was a new medium and that photography as it was, was shifting under his feet. ‘Photography has killed itself off. It references itself from a heyday that doesn’t exist anymore.’ Nick started filming shoots in the 1980s stating, ‘Clothes are designed to be seen in movement’. He wanted to show people the process, to lift the veil on how the media shows fashion, where it is ‘either trivialised or scandalised.’ He wanted to show the process, to give people access to how brilliant fashion is and to understand it as an art form, reinforcing that, ‘The biggest luxury we have left is access.’

Imran Amed and Nick Knight

What does the future of fashion hold? According to Nick fashion shows will evolve into huge consumer events and entertainment is the key. ‘You have to turn it into an event. You can’t just make it live.’ A fundamental revolution is underway. Production schedules will be brought forward to enable consumers to purchase immediately, distribution will change and designers will no longer have to have shows. Film allows designers to have much more control. In a nutshell, the industry is, ‘in total flux. It’s thrilling’.

So what makes a good fashion film? A fashion film has to make the clothes desirable and the message has to be delivered with intensity. There is no need for narrative. The message is imbued in the clothing, and the key is the relationship between the image-maker and the model. ‘You need to have that personal relationship.’ Nick’s secret recipe consists of two people (not a massive crew). One person is the image-maker, the other is the model. Also on the list are one camera and one light. ‘I don’t need a lot of stuff,’ he says, and he is adamant that technology does not have an effect on creativity. It is simply an enabling tool. ‘Technology gives you possibility’.

Imran Amed and Nick Knight

What is Nick’s advice to the budding image-maker? ‘If you really want to do it, you have to work harder than anybody else,’ and you’ll have to be prepared to give up your love life, food, security and be ready to take on board a lot of discouragement, but according to Nick, ‘It’s one of the greatest things you can do,’ and the only tools you really need are ‘your heart and your mind.’ Equipment is irrelevant. If you have something to say, you’ll find a way to say it.

At close, Nick pointed out a poignant industry truth. ‘The fashion industry is so frustratingly narrow,’ going on to say, ‘I’ve tried to articulate an alternative,’ in regards to age, race and shape. ‘Society isn’t well represented in fashion. It should be’.

Congratulations to Imran who says, ‘It was an honour to have such an honest and insightful conversation with an immensely important cultural figure such as Nick Knight, and share it with the global BoF community. There was much to learn from his experience and point of view’. Imran is also ‘excited that Nick Knight was a trending topic on Twitter during the talk’!

Fashion Business Club would like to wish FBC member Harold Tillman, chairman of the British Fashion Council a hearty congratulations. Harold has been awarded with an honourary CBE (Commander of the Order of the British Empire) by the Princess Royal in recognition of his services to the fashion industry.

Harold was awarded his medal at Buckingham Palace on the 25th of November and later held a reception at the newly refurbished Savoy where he commented, ‘It is a real honour to be recognised in this way. The UK is home to some of the world’s leading fashion brands and I am proud to be associated with a number of them through the British Fashion Council and directly with Jaeger and Aquascutum. I am delighted to have been given the opportunity to acquire these two wonderful British businesses with true heritage and be part of their revival.’

FBC members present at The Savoy celebration included Alexandra Shulman, editor of British Vogue, Lauretta Roberts, digital development director of WGSN, and FBC co-founder & MD of Forward PR, Courtney Blackman.

The crowd at Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™

The bitterly cold weather didn’t deter FBC members who turned up in force to hear WGSN’s Lauretta Roberts interview fashion retail expert Yasmin Sewell at Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™. Looking effortlessly cool in a Christopher Kane top, rolled up jeans and grey Topshop heels, Yasmin confessed to feeling a little daunted by all the attention, admitting  ‘I hope I have something interesting to say.’ She needn’t worry – with a career which started in real estate and window dressing at Browns, and saw her launch her own boutique and work with brands such as Rick Owens before becoming hot property as a retail consultant, she certainly has a fashion story to tell.

Lauretta Roberts interviewing Yasmin Sewell

Yasmin is renowned for the successful transformation of iconic London department store Liberty, which she achieved with the addition of around 70 new designers and a fresh design aesthetic, leading to the store reporting its largest half-year profit in 10 years. Yasmin admitted feeling a degree of nervousness about taking on such a well-loved institution, and her respect for the store is clear: ‘It’s magical – it just needed to be cleaned up.’

Lauretta Roberts and Yasmin Sewell

Modestly insisting the overhaul was the work of the whole team, she explains how energy flow is incredibly important in a retail environment - ‘I can get really spiritual when I want to’ – and that too much product clogging up the space can be detrimental to sales. Working for Liberty taught Yasmin the importance of trusting her own judgement, and – in spite of never having had any formal training – she was also able to develop marketing skills on the job. Summarising the project, Yasmin stresses the importance of a store understanding its core values, describing Liberty as ‘eclectic, a bit mad, not too fashion but still cool’.

FBC’s press director Penelope Sacorafou, tweeting to @FBCLondon

In her day-to-day role, Yasmin and her PA Hannah offer trend, product and buying direction for brands and retailers. Perhaps better known for her work with luxury brands, Yasmin’s clients also include high street retailers and she cites Topshop, Zara and COS as fantastic high street brands. Discussing the notoriously unfathomable art of trend forecasting Yasmin explains, ‘It often comes down to a feeling, as well as looking at what’s already happening in fashion and seeing how that can evolve. It’s also about opposites – if it’s all about skinny jeans it will go wide.’ Something of a globetrotter, she also gathers information from around the world, offering a personalised trend service for each customer.

FBC member Lupe Castro (centre) with visiting press Marian Kihogo and Michelle Bobb Paris

Although she prefers a physical retail environment for her own purchases, Yasmin is also an expert in online fashion retail. Asked about how the internet has affected consumer behaviour she explains, ‘It’s made kids savvy through access to information, which is scary for designers as they don’t want to be overexposed.’ In terms of bricks and mortar stores, Yasmin is of the resolute belief that service is at the heart of an outstanding retailer, alongside great product and ‘an environment that makes customers feel great when they walk in’.

Caroline Leaper and Sabina Emrit from ACCESS-FASHION with Nik Thakkar (centre) from KARLISMYUNCLE

With experience in the UK and across the pond, Yasmin feels that service is generally appalling in London compared to New York, and she’s vehement that the attitude on our shop floors needs to change. ‘It’s hard to change the mentality that it is degrading to serve someone, [but] I think it’s beautiful to serve someone and make them feel great in a dress.’ She does, however, give John Lewis her customer service seal of approval.

FBC member Frances Card of Matches talking with Sach Kukadia of secretsales.com

Yasmin Sewell with Andre DeVeaux and The Hub magazine editor, Tolu Adeko

As a mentor with the BFC, Yasmin is dedicated to supporting young designers and knows what it takes to stand out from the crowd. She explains that the ones who do make it have drive and common sense – as well as a little magic. Someone who definitely has ‘the magic’ is Christopher Kane, who she championed in her role as Buying Director at Browns. Her hot tips for brand new design talent are Thomas Tait and JS Lee.

What advice would she give to young designers? ‘Be unique, embrace who you are and know your market’. Having acted as a mentor for Estethica, Yasmin feels a mentoring programme for graduates would definitely be beneficial. ‘Sometimes as a young designer you’re in your own head so much that you can get quite delusional…you need to know what’s happening out there in the world.’

FBC members Helen Puxley of RAH Productions and Orlando Martins or Oresa

Her expertise comes with the benefit of considerable experience. Yasmin opened her own boutique Yasmin Cho at just 21, gaining her a reputation for spotting hot new talent. The store went on to be listed as one of the most influential in the world by the New York Times. Yasmin puts the eventual closure of the boutique down to being vulnerable, getting bad advice and making bad financial choices. It is from mistakes such as these, though, that she finds the most valuable lessons are learned, saying, ‘you get burned, you learn.’

So which store would Yasmin love to get her hands on? ‘Australian store David Jones, I’d work on the brand mix, layout and service in the store. I’ve always loved Barney’s as it is so gorgeous and intimate, although it doesn’t really need my help.’

FBC members & stylists Anne Look and Rebekah Roy with fashion photographer Christopher Dadey

Surprisingly for someone with such an obvious love for fashion, Yasmin keeps her wardrobe on the minimalist side, ‘I don’t like to clutter my life with too many clothes so every couple of months I sell them’. There were a few disappointed FBC members in the room as Yasmin revealed her cleaner gets most of her clothes – ‘I haven’t paid her in about 6 months!’ Despite clearing out all the clothes she hasn’t worn in a year, she admits to keeping around 10 special pieces. ‘Alaïa doesn’t go,’ she says with a smile. We can only imagine what these 10 special pieces are, but we’re told two of her favourite brands are Acne and Balenciaga.

Lauretta and Yasmin with FBC co-founders Courtney Blackman and Alison Whelan

Listening to Yasmin talk about her career and achievements, it’s clear she has the Midas touch when it comes to fashion retail, but also that her numerous successes have been achieved through old-fashioned hard work. Judging by the amount of FBC members who stay long after the chairs have been cleared away to chat with her over a little champagne, it’s clear she has many more inspirational nuggets to share.

By guest editor, FBC member & editor of Fashion Monitor, Victoria Todd

Photographs by FBC member Venetia van Hoorn Alkema

Forward PR, the fashion communication agency launched by FBC co-founder Courtney Blackman,  is delighted to welcome British designer label, Beautiful Soul into their stable of fashion clients. Beautiful Soul is a luxury womenswear label and has gained recognition for its creative and intelligent approach to design.

The brainchild of FBC member Nicola Woods Beautiful Soul recycles unique textiles from around the world, and has made a name for itself through its up-cycling of vintage Japanese kimonos into jackets, dresses, coats and boleros – many of them interchangeable and multi-functional, with a focus on garment longevity. New for the SS2011season, Beautiful Soul has introduced menswear to its growing offering, has re-branded with a new visual identity and has created an exclusive film, inviting everyone into the Beautiful Soul world.

The collection includes a special, retro bird print collaboration with textiles designer Polly Hope, and organic luxury fabrics complement the colour palette of purple, mustard, pink, blue and grey. The print allows for wholesale orders, sitting comfortably alongside the rest of the brands exclusive designs. The brand’s strict zero-waste policy means a range of unique corsets has been constructed from leftover fabrics.

FBC would like to congratulate FBC member Mark Bage, creative director of Sarah Coggles, on a double win at the 2010 Drapers Awards. No stranger to awards over the last several years, Sarah Coggles, the York-based boutique that launched in 1976, was shortlisted in five different categories, so it was not surprising that two trophies went home with Mark. Mark and his team won Buyer/Buyer Team of the Year and Independent Retailer of the Year.

Mark says, “We are very proud to have won the two main Drapers Awards. We were awarded ‘Buying Team of the Year’ and the overall winner of the night with ‘Independent Retailer of the Year’. It is such an amazing honour to have won so many in one night as the event is considered to be the industry’s Fashion Oscars.”

Mark and his team accepting both awards

The event was held at London’s Grosvenor House Hotel and several FBC members were there to help celebrate 20 years of the awards. Matches commercial director, Frances Card; director of RAH Productions, Helen Puxley and associate director of EdenCanCan, Jonathan Kirkby were there, and table 17 was especially crowded with FBC members: Courtney Blackman, MD of Forward PR & FBC co-chair; Lauretta Roberts, digital development director at WGSN; Harold Tillman CBE, chairman of the British Fashion Council and our guest interviewee for the 25th, fashion retail consultant, creative advisor and trend forecaster, Yasmin Sewell.

See Lauretta Roberts interview Yasmin Sewell on Thursday the 25^th of November at Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™. Contact: membership@fashionbusinessclub.net

Today kicks off The Drapers Fashion Week. What initially started as a two-day event, The Drapers Fashion Summit, has now been extended to four days of insight, information and inspiration. Fashion Business Club (FBC) is proud to be a part of it and here’s what’s in store:

Monday, 15 November 2010 – WGSN Live

FBC member Lauretta Roberts is the digital development director of WGSN and today offers an exclusive trend day with WGSN’s global experts in fashion and style to identify and shape buying decisions for 2011, providing essential insight for strategy and exclusive consumer and product trends for next season.

Alice, Bunty, Courtney, Dolly, John, Mark, Harold

Tuesday, 16 and Wednesday 17 November 2010 – The Drapers Fashion Summit

The Drapers Fashion Summit is being held at London’s May Fair Hotel, with two days of visionary speakers from across the fashion world. Fashion’s elite will be joining together in a creative forum to debate and discuss the key themes and issues that are having an impact on the industry today. Along with Mary Portas, Ed Vaizey and Caroline Rush, FBC members who are speaking include Alice Stone, founder and director of Lily and Lionel; Bunty Stokes, country sales manager for Vente-Privée; Courtney Blackman, FBC co-founder and managing director of Forward PR; Dolly Jones, FBC board member and editor of VOGUE.COM; John Buni, managing director of Tailor Made London; Mark Bage, creative director of Coggles, and FBC member Harold Tillman CBE, chairman of the British Fashion Council and owner of Aquascutum and Jaeger will also be contributing. “It’s the Summit’s 10th anniversary and it’s fantastic that so many FBC members are lending their time and expertise to help make it great.” Courtney Blackman, FBC co-founder & co-chairman.

Thursday, 18 November 2010 – Fashion Study Tour

As one of the fashion world’s most influential cities, this is an opportunity to take in some of London’s most inspiring stores with WGSN guides.

For more details, visit: The Drapers Fashion Week