For all our members and guests who attended the sell out meeting – we hope your enjoy a refresher from FBCtv – and for members who missed the meeting, we hope you enjoy and are inspired by two exceptional women.

Blog written by: Bukie Aje-Lloyd

FBC’s next meeting features two exceptional blogging talents at the up-coming by-monthly meeting on the 31st of March. Sasha Wilkins aka Liberty London Girl will be interviewed by Navaz Batliwalla aka DisneyRollerGirl.

Both are respected fashion industry insiders whose personal endorsements, tweets and blogs postings regularly mean record sales for the named vendor. The influence of bloggers such as Sasha and Navaz are gaining ground and are a respected element of any brand and marketing budget today. FBC co-founder Alison Whelan says, ‘Blogging is a fashion phenomenon, and both Sasha and Navaz play an authentic role in the new digital media and marketing wave that is realigning advertising budgets and asking brands to rethink their communication strategy’.

FBC member Navaz Batliwalla will be interviewing FBC member Sasha Wilkins on issues such as how this new audience of influencers has arisen, what the necessary skills and financial components to a bloggers business are, how to stay honest and organic in marketing other people’s products and what percentage of the money made is reinvested in the business.

If you would like to attend please let us know by contacting: membership@fashionbusinessclub.net. If you are press please contact Bukie Aje-Lloyd at press@fashionbusinessclub.net.

]]> http://fashionbusinessclub.net/blog/2011/03/21/disneyrollergirl-in-conversation-with-liberty-london-girl/feed/ 0 http://fashionbusinessclub.net/blog/2011/02/08/fbctv-dolly-jones-interviews-markus-lupfer/ http://fashionbusinessclub.net/blog/2011/02/08/fbctv-dolly-jones-interviews-markus-lupfer/#comments Mon, 07 Feb 2011 23:26:42 +0000 Alison Whelan http://fashionbusinessclub.net/blog/?p=6077 27 January 2011 at Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™, Dolly Jones, editor Vogue.com conducted an incredible interview with designer Markus Lupfer. The questions were born of a strong relationship and deep respect for the designer, whilst his responses, focused on the strategic development of his business, were honest and full of humility.

For all of our members and guests who missed the meeting, FBCtv presents a short film now published on Vogue.com. Please click on the image to view.

Dolly Jones, Editor Vogue.com and Markus Lupfer, Designer

To mark Fashion Business Club (FBC)’s 5^th anniversary, the fashion professionals network invited German sequin master; Markus Lupfer to talk to FBC board member and VOGUE.COM UK editor, Dolly Jones at London’s Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™.

The first thing that strikes you about Markus Lupfer is his humility and down-to-earth nature. Despite his global success as a fashion designer and the droves of celebrity devotees endorsing his brand, he remains businesslike, approachable and engaging.

These characteristics are clearly assets that he brings into his business, allowing him to be both groundbreaking and experimental with unique ranges that remain wearable everyday basics. It is crucial for Lupfer that he never isolates his stockists or perhaps most importantly: his customers.

Despite confessing to being ‘a bit shy’ and preferring to operate behind the curtain of his own business, his thoughtful responses to Dolly’s questions revealed that he is clearly a skilled communicator and careful listener. Indeed, attention to detail and intricate finishing have come to define and differentiate his brand and Markus confirms, “Embellishment has become the signature of the label”.

Dolly Jones & Markus Lupfer

When asked if his upcoming tea at The Sanderson arranged for London Fashion Week in February perhaps indicates a desire to return to the catwalk, Markus is clear to define his priorities. “You have to make things bigger, louder, more extreme for the catwalk,” but Markus focuses on fashion that works on the shop floor, advising, “Think about your customer. If the shop has an issue, help them with it. Without the shop floor you don’t have a business.”

Whilst Markus has not yet found a direct replacement for the catwalk, he continues to inform the market by building relationships and making himself and his brand accessible to existing and prospective customers.

Customer centricity is not something that he simply pays lip service to; for Markus Lupfer it is a way of life. In conversation with Dolly who said, “…you strike me as a very international person – do you think that’s the secret to your success, the fact that you are multicultural and always travelling?” Markus replied, “I think that it is really important to travel. If I look at it from a business point of view… it’s colder here but quite often my markets are in hotter climates. It is important to look at other countries and see what they like to wear”.

He is evidently tuned into the varying tastes of his diverse markets, creating ranges that are culturally as well as geographically specific. This awareness and proactive response to customer needs is perfectly summed up in his tailoring of certain products for Harrods in the build up to Ramadan.

Markus Lupfer’s creations have become synonymous with celebrity wardrobes and this plays a key role in the broader marketing of his brand.

Dolly: “You worked with Olivia Palermo fairly on in her career, that makes you a spotter of new talent”

Markus: “You need to strike a balance between the likes of Rihanna and new, up and coming [talents].

Dolly: “Who’s next on your radar?”

Markus: “There is someone coming up soon… we’ll see!”

A balanced representation from established global stars and relatively undiscovered new talent reflects a very deliberate effort to remain inclusive and accessible, despite clearly appealing to the luxury end of the market.

As a German designer, now based in the UK he is asked to discuss what the British fashion scene has done for him. “I came here to study and that was really crucial I think because I studied for 2 years in Germany where fashion culture was very correct and followed rules. Then when I came here it was all about ‘Who are you?’ ‘What do you want to achieve?’ I think the UK [fashion scene] is the strongest in the world”

Markus Lupfer talking with Frances Card of Matches and Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™’s Stine Broggard

Where he does see flaws and room for improvement in the UK market is on the ‘sell side’ and rightly emphasises that, “ability to sell your collection will make or break your business.”

At the end of a very informative interview, which flows more like a conversation between two old friends – questions are opened up to the floor.

Unsurprisingly, the first question is prefaced with a comment about how refreshingly humble and candid Markus is, despite his huge success. He is then asked if he would ever consider a ‘diffusion line’.

In his response, he explains that his business is structured to serve three separate markets and price points, again reaffirming his dedication to accessibility. Sticking to this formula is considered more relevant for him and avoids overcomplicating things for his stockists.

A further questioner mentions seeing the German designer at Harvey Nicholls, being the face of the brand during Vogue’s ‘Fashion’s Night Out’ where he seemed to be enjoying the customer direct experience. “Generally I am happy to do it” he doesn’t instinctively want to be on centre stage but explains, “I love to see who my customers are”. Being more closely linked to retailers than their customers, it is a rare insight for him to meet them and receive direct feedback.

Markus Lupfer talking with Tala Samman of My Fash Diary and FBC co-founder Courtney Blackman

Finally, Courtney Blackman (co-chairman and co-founder of FBC) asks about his views on social networking sites and new models of communication, and Lupfer, ever keen to reach out to his customers is excited by the social networking phenomenon and confirms he is a regular Tweeter, and that he has a film in the pipeline.

The 5^th anniversary reached its conclusion with music from three fashionable DJ’s called The Collection led by Jeffrey Louis-Reed from Audio Sushi, champagne and ‘FBC Cocktails’ made especially by the Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™ bar staff. Markus joined in the celebrations, taking the time to chat to FBC members making the most of the opportunity to talk to one of London’s foremost fashion business minds.

Written by FBC member Alice Stone of Lily and Lionel

Photos by FBC photographer Venetia van Hoorn Alkema

The crowd at Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™

The bitterly cold weather didn’t deter FBC members who turned up in force to hear WGSN’s Lauretta Roberts interview fashion retail expert Yasmin Sewell at Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™. Looking effortlessly cool in a Christopher Kane top, rolled up jeans and grey Topshop heels, Yasmin confessed to feeling a little daunted by all the attention, admitting  ‘I hope I have something interesting to say.’ She needn’t worry – with a career which started in real estate and window dressing at Browns, and saw her launch her own boutique and work with brands such as Rick Owens before becoming hot property as a retail consultant, she certainly has a fashion story to tell.

Lauretta Roberts interviewing Yasmin Sewell

Yasmin is renowned for the successful transformation of iconic London department store Liberty, which she achieved with the addition of around 70 new designers and a fresh design aesthetic, leading to the store reporting its largest half-year profit in 10 years. Yasmin admitted feeling a degree of nervousness about taking on such a well-loved institution, and her respect for the store is clear: ‘It’s magical – it just needed to be cleaned up.’

Lauretta Roberts and Yasmin Sewell

Modestly insisting the overhaul was the work of the whole team, she explains how energy flow is incredibly important in a retail environment - ‘I can get really spiritual when I want to’ – and that too much product clogging up the space can be detrimental to sales. Working for Liberty taught Yasmin the importance of trusting her own judgement, and – in spite of never having had any formal training – she was also able to develop marketing skills on the job. Summarising the project, Yasmin stresses the importance of a store understanding its core values, describing Liberty as ‘eclectic, a bit mad, not too fashion but still cool’.

FBC’s press director Penelope Sacorafou, tweeting to @FBCLondon

In her day-to-day role, Yasmin and her PA Hannah offer trend, product and buying direction for brands and retailers. Perhaps better known for her work with luxury brands, Yasmin’s clients also include high street retailers and she cites Topshop, Zara and COS as fantastic high street brands. Discussing the notoriously unfathomable art of trend forecasting Yasmin explains, ‘It often comes down to a feeling, as well as looking at what’s already happening in fashion and seeing how that can evolve. It’s also about opposites – if it’s all about skinny jeans it will go wide.’ Something of a globetrotter, she also gathers information from around the world, offering a personalised trend service for each customer.

FBC member Lupe Castro (centre) with visiting press Marian Kihogo and Michelle Bobb Paris

Although she prefers a physical retail environment for her own purchases, Yasmin is also an expert in online fashion retail. Asked about how the internet has affected consumer behaviour she explains, ‘It’s made kids savvy through access to information, which is scary for designers as they don’t want to be overexposed.’ In terms of bricks and mortar stores, Yasmin is of the resolute belief that service is at the heart of an outstanding retailer, alongside great product and ‘an environment that makes customers feel great when they walk in’.

Caroline Leaper and Sabina Emrit from ACCESS-FASHION with Nik Thakkar (centre) from KARLISMYUNCLE

With experience in the UK and across the pond, Yasmin feels that service is generally appalling in London compared to New York, and she’s vehement that the attitude on our shop floors needs to change. ‘It’s hard to change the mentality that it is degrading to serve someone, [but] I think it’s beautiful to serve someone and make them feel great in a dress.’ She does, however, give John Lewis her customer service seal of approval.

FBC member Frances Card of Matches talking with Sach Kukadia of secretsales.com

Yasmin Sewell with Andre DeVeaux and The Hub magazine editor, Tolu Adeko

As a mentor with the BFC, Yasmin is dedicated to supporting young designers and knows what it takes to stand out from the crowd. She explains that the ones who do make it have drive and common sense – as well as a little magic. Someone who definitely has ‘the magic’ is Christopher Kane, who she championed in her role as Buying Director at Browns. Her hot tips for brand new design talent are Thomas Tait and JS Lee.

What advice would she give to young designers? ‘Be unique, embrace who you are and know your market’. Having acted as a mentor for Estethica, Yasmin feels a mentoring programme for graduates would definitely be beneficial. ‘Sometimes as a young designer you’re in your own head so much that you can get quite delusional…you need to know what’s happening out there in the world.’

FBC members Helen Puxley of RAH Productions and Orlando Martins or Oresa

Her expertise comes with the benefit of considerable experience. Yasmin opened her own boutique Yasmin Cho at just 21, gaining her a reputation for spotting hot new talent. The store went on to be listed as one of the most influential in the world by the New York Times. Yasmin puts the eventual closure of the boutique down to being vulnerable, getting bad advice and making bad financial choices. It is from mistakes such as these, though, that she finds the most valuable lessons are learned, saying, ‘you get burned, you learn.’

So which store would Yasmin love to get her hands on? ‘Australian store David Jones, I’d work on the brand mix, layout and service in the store. I’ve always loved Barney’s as it is so gorgeous and intimate, although it doesn’t really need my help.’

FBC members & stylists Anne Look and Rebekah Roy with fashion photographer Christopher Dadey

Surprisingly for someone with such an obvious love for fashion, Yasmin keeps her wardrobe on the minimalist side, ‘I don’t like to clutter my life with too many clothes so every couple of months I sell them’. There were a few disappointed FBC members in the room as Yasmin revealed her cleaner gets most of her clothes – ‘I haven’t paid her in about 6 months!’ Despite clearing out all the clothes she hasn’t worn in a year, she admits to keeping around 10 special pieces. ‘Alaïa doesn’t go,’ she says with a smile. We can only imagine what these 10 special pieces are, but we’re told two of her favourite brands are Acne and Balenciaga.

Lauretta and Yasmin with FBC co-founders Courtney Blackman and Alison Whelan

Listening to Yasmin talk about her career and achievements, it’s clear she has the Midas touch when it comes to fashion retail, but also that her numerous successes have been achieved through old-fashioned hard work. Judging by the amount of FBC members who stay long after the chairs have been cleared away to chat with her over a little champagne, it’s clear she has many more inspirational nuggets to share.

By guest editor, FBC member & editor of Fashion Monitor, Victoria Todd

Photographs by FBC member Venetia van Hoorn Alkema

FBC’s guest speaker on the 25th of November is retailer extraordinaire Yasmin Sewell. From a young age Yasmin has been a force to reckon with in the fashion industry. At 18 Yasmin Sewell worked as a fashion assistant at Harper’s Bazaar in New York, four years later she opened Yasmin Cho – listed by the New York Times as one of the 5 most influential boutiques in the world. In 2005 she relocated to London where she took the helm of world-renowned retailer, Browns. In 2008 she branched-out into consultancy and is credited with the reinvention of London’s iconic department store, Liberty. Yasmin steered the project to success as Chief Creative Consultant bringing in 60 new designers, and within a year Liberty declared double-digit growth, reporting its biggest half-yearly profit for over 10 years in August 2009.

Yasmin is also a big supporter of burgeoning talent and her golden touch has helped propel names including Christopher Kane, Meadham Kirchhoff, Nicholas Kirkwood, Marios Schwab, Acne and Michael Van Der Ham.Yasmin’s commitment to the industry sees her working with the British Fashion Council, as well as sitting on various boards including the Swarovski Emerging Talent Award and she has twice judged the British Fashion Awards.

Yasmin’s resume is impressive to say the least, and therefore it is only suitable that another fashion maverick conducts her interview. On the 25th of November Yasmin will be interviewed by digital whizz, FBC member and Digital Director of WGSN Lauretta Roberts who has just stepped off the plane from New York where she created the first ever Global Fashion Awards.

November 25th 2010

3:00pm

Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™ Lounge, London

membership@fashionbusinessclub.net

FBC was treated to an inspiring afternoon off from the madness between London and Paris Fashion Week. FBC Board member and editor of  VOGUE.COM, Dolly Jones talked to internationally renowned model, Laura Bailey about modeling, motherhood and the stories behind the fashion.

Laura Bailey never set out to be a model with a conscience, in fact after leaving university she came to London with dreams of working backstage in the theatre. The world had other plans for Laura, who had a fairy tale spotting while walking down the Kings Road. What started off as a summer job turned into an extraordinary career.

In addition to modeling, Laura writes for several magazines and blogs and is an ambassador for Banardos, Oxfam and the Fairtrade Foundation. On how this has all happened Laura says, “I am not about the plan. Opportunities have presented themselves, and then the different projects  interweave and spin off together.”

Laura’s most recent adventure into eco-fashion is as a designer for Made. She came to Made as a journalist and a customer, tipped off by friends. Laura wanted to tell their story, which she ended up doing though creating a collection in their factory in Kenya. “If you are ever lucky enough to go and see how sustainable production genuinely changes lives, I urge you to. It was really, really moving.” Aside from that, Laura enjoyed the experience of creating something that is now for sale in London through a label that understands fashion and creates products that are ethical.

Laura has also visited Nepal with People Tree, and this autumn is heading to Ghana and Liberia with Oxfam. The Oxfam trip is not strictly about fashion, but about the education and health of young women. “It is removed from fashion, but actually not, as to me it is all connected.”

Dolly and Laura are working together on the Green Style Blog recently launched on VOGUE.COM, where Laura Bailey along with friends Livia Firth and Sheheradaze Goldsmith, share tales of all things eco-chic. ”I always wanted to write, so find it strange that I found a way to do this through modelling. When it comes to the Green Style Blog, I love the opportunity, it is a conversation, a journey, where we ask questions along the way.”

Laura understands the irony on championing a green lifestyle. “As a model I am with one leg trying to sell products and then with the other saying buy less.” But she believes everyone can do it, whether politically, through thrifty-ness or saving up for special things to pass down through generations, “I grew up in a way that was naturally green but without the labels. I have never been an ‘It Bag Girl’ or bought ‘One Night Stand Dresses.’  I have always been more of a vintage, long-term shopper, happy to pick up £5 vintage bargains. ” On buying new ethical fashion “The success of ethical fashion needs to be in terms of style and not eco credentials.”

Laura loves fashion now more than ever. She is interested in the story, the craft, and is constantly inspired by her friends who work in it. This is where a lot of her motivation comes from to stay a busy working mum. She dreams of having a more conventional life about once a week but it passes quickly. How does she fit in all her project and her family life?  ”My system is chaos, I sometimes work all night as I don’t want to miss a football match, a ballet recital or anything. But I never wanted a normal life, and although I could happily play with the kids all day, I think I am probably a better mother through being inspired and working.”

Watching Laura speak, it is clear to all FBC members that she has a passion and appetite for adventure in fashion and beyond. This year she climbed Mount Kilimanjaro.  ”I can’t resist a dare, and it was something I always wanted to do. It was so much harder then I ever would have imagined it to be. It feels like the worse hangover of your life for four days as you stumble around like a alcoholic invalid until you reach the top, but in the excitement of it, you quickly forget the pain, like with childbirth. Although I am not doing it again!”

The conversation then moved onto ethical fashion, where the amount of FBC members dying to ask questions, made it a long discussion. The most recent London Fashion Week signaled hope for sustainable fashion and the mainstream fashion industry working closer together. Laura said ”I think consumers are more interested in the story behind the product now. The first Sustainable Fashion Show [part of Prince Charles's START initiative] that took place during London Fashion Week  - it wasn’t perfect but it was a huge step forward. It all feels so exciting – the process being so transparent I mean. I do find all the labels, like eco warrior ect., very unhelpful. They detract away from the cause itself. It is about what the designers and the media are doing, but also about the consumers asking the right questions to the big businesses and then the big business responding, like with M & S and fairtrade.”

Through the questions it came out that being tagged an eco-designer closes doors, and that although Estehica provides a great platform for designers, it would work better if the playing field saw sustainable fashion mixed in with all fashion, and simply judged on the beauty of the product with ethics as an additional value.  As more of the mainstream fashion world gets into the sustainable side of things, this can only change for the better.

On why all fashion isn’t eco, Dolly said “It’s because it hasn’t been highlighted before, so we need to get as many people as possible to join in the conversation, as more and more people think about it, more will do it.”

The members of FBC seemed convinced and conversations over bubbly turned to ‘How can we all work together to make the industry that we love more sustainable?’

Photographs by Sam Atkinson

Amisha Ghadiali

FBC member Amisha Ghadiali will be our guest editor for the Laura Bailey / Dolly Jones interview.

Amisha lives and breathes ethical fashion, having worked in the industry for the past four years, both as the associate director of the Ethical Fashion Forum, working with everyone across the supply chain from farmers to retailers, and as designer of her own line of jewellery: Amisha Elegance Rebellion, which has been featured in Grazia and Vogue.

Alongside the jewellery label, Amisha writes for Ecouterre, the US site devoted to the future of sustainable fashion design. This year Amisha also founded the Think Act Vote campaign to bring fashion and politics together, asking us to think about The Future That We Choose.

We’ll look forward to reading Amisha’s review of the FBC meeting.

Laura Baily interviewed by Dolly Jones

30 September 2010

3:00pm

Swarovski CRYSTALLIZED™

membership@fashionbusinessclub.net

Laura has written for Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Glamour, GQ, The Daily Telegraph, STYLE and the The Independent- to mention but a few, and as far as her modelling career goes, her fashion and beauty campaigns include Guess Jeans, Ray-Ban, L’Oreal, Jaguar Cars, Jaeger, Marks & Spencer, Pantene and Temperley London.

After stints in New York she now lives in London with her two small children Luc, 5 and Lola Tiger, 2 and writes twice a week for FBC’s media partner VOGUE.COM and for their recently launched Vogue Green Style Blog alongside friends Livia Firth and Sheherazade Goldsmith. Laura is an active and vocal campaigner for ethical and fair trade fashion and her first fairtrade jewellery collection in collaboration with MADE, launched to acclaim earlier this month. She looks forward to travelling to Ghana with Oxfam on a fact-finding and film- making mission later this autumn.

At the FBC meeting Laura will be interviewed by FBC board member and editor of VOGUE.COM Dolly Jones. On the 30th of September Laura will be advocating why it is important to support sustainable fashion and to write about it; commenting on the altering image of ethical fashion and its ability to incorporate luxury lifestyles. Amongst these more serious and fundamentally important issues Laura Bailey will share what it is like working for VOGUE.COM and how she manages to balance fashion, writing and family life.

If are press and would like to attend the meeting please contact Penelope at press@fashionbusinessclub.net If you are not a member but would like to attend this meeting please contact Rita at membership@fashionbusinessclub.net